"Glory is fleeting, but barbecue is forever." – Napoleon Bonaparte (rumored)
It hits you even before you open the door – the sweet aroma of wood smoke mingled with pork fat whispering promises of tasty things to come. It doesn't take much to pique our appetites, having waited long past the lunch rush to invade Smokin' Planks in the heart of Port Royal.
He’s a hustler, he has to be, the last cash he saw from selling oysters went out with the tide on May 15th, but he finds a way. He has been on the water since he was five. There are fish to broker, mushrooms to forage, herbs to grow and barter with. There are lawns to cut and a hundred other little labors to help stem the tide, so he can keep his life on the water. He does it all while still tending his oyster beds - raking, grooming, breaking, shuttling the wild oysters to prepare for the day when the season opens again.
On a crisp January morning in Vicenza I pulled the door open to the tiny Trattoria, arriving early for my first day of work, as is my custom. Through the empty, pale yellow dining room I followed the aroma of baking bread to the kitchen door.
I am a chef by trade, a writer by good fortune. As the owner of my restaurant I am the guy with the spinning plates and sticks, each day trying to get all the moving parts together before the doors open at five. Some days I'm better at it than others, and for sure it's not a one-man show. I work a side-by-side with a quirky collection of incredibly hard working characters that come together each day to execute the one imperative I ask of them - make people happy.
“It’s good to stay hip to the current culinary trends, but it’s also really, really important to know your roots. Sometimes tried and true techniques are best. Sometimes simple is best – especially when you’re dealing with the kind of product I get all the time.”
The postcard community of Habersham recently hosted the 3rd annual Farmer’s Table to benefit the Lowcountry Food Bank. The evening brings together a corps of acclaimed local chefs for one of the most anticipated culinary gatherings in the region. This dazzling outdoor supper is sourced entirely from local farms, prepared and served in the heart of Habersham. The 2012 event also featured live bluegrass music, cocktails and hors d’oeuvres at Habersham Farm, a silent auction, fine wine, craft brews, the debut of a new boutique whiskey, and dancing under the stars. And of course, a meal made to remember.